What is Kebaya?

Kebaya is an upper garment traditionally worn by women in Southeast Asia, notably in Brunei, Indonesia, Malaysia, Singapore and Southern Thailand. It is also worn in parts of Southern Philippines and Cambodia. Kebaya is an outerwear opened at the front made from lightweight fabrics such as brocade, cotton, lace, or voile and sometimes adorned with embroidery. The front is secured with either buttons, pins, or brooches. The lower garment for the outfit is known as sarong (Batik or Batek sarong) so was called in these region as “Sarong Kebaya”. Kebaya was 300 years shared heritage in broad area and many communities. Each community have had their special technique and skill which created new derivatives and generations of kebaya.

Etymology

The link between “kebaya” with “qaba” “a vesture”, an Arabic term was first established in the Hobson-Jobson dictionary in 1886. The term was used since the seventh century and was ultimately originated from a Persian word meaning “robe of honour”. Portuguese records published in the 16th and 17th century also noted variations of the term “cabaya” as a Muslim long robe. The term was then introduced to the Malay world and Java to be “Kebaya” through Portuguese intermediary during the 16th century.

The origin and evolution of Kebaya

From 16th Century, Portuguese settlers worn “cabaya”, the long loose jacket called “caba” or “cabaya” to be new fashion from Europe pass Gao (occupied in 1510s) to Melaka(occupied in 1511s). During that time, cabaya was tradition worn by both men and women.

During 16th Century, Muslim people had their garment alike cabaya called “Baju Kurung”. This long tunic which was well covered body was suitable for Muslim ladies then turn to be National Attire of Malaysia. During 17th Century, Dutch East Indies Company brought lace from Europe passed India to Malay peninsula. European ladies in this area began to combine lace with their cotton cloth. By the mid-19th century, wearing an outfit consisting of a white lace ornamented kebaya and a lavish batik sarong was regarded as a privilege of the European and Eurasian women in the Dutch East Indies. In 1872, the Dutch administration issued a rule which required every resident of the colony to wear their ethnic clothing in public areas. From 1872 until 1920, kebaya had been adopted as the preferred women’s attire of the Dutch East Indies, either worn by native women, European and Eurasians. On February 10, 1910, the colonial government issued a regulation for the Chinese Peranakan, an “equalization” that led the wealthy Peranakan women to wear kebaya and batik sarong similar to the Dutch and Indo women. The Peranakan women began to wear and adapted white lace kebaya to be tighter-fitting and short kebaya with combined auspicious symbols in embroideries. This new short kebaya began to be famous and derived to be many following variances.

By the 1910s, the base materials for kebaya began to change from fine white cotton to bright and transparent fabrics such as voile and organdie imported from France, Switzerland and Germany. By the late 1930s, cutwork kebaya was evolved with scalloping and embroidery at the edge. By the late1940s, embroidered kebaya was evolved sophisticatedly with special techniques and skills in each community. Javanese technique as Keranchang embroidery of Betawi and smaller and finer encim embroidery were also evolved. In Straits Settlement, nyonya kebayas were developed to be kebaya renda(or lace kebaya), kebaya biku(improved version of lace with embroidery at hem) and kebaya sulam(luxuriant embroidery) in Peranakan communities. Nevertheless, even many types of short kebayas are popular in many communities, the original long kebaya or Baju Panjang has still traditionally dressed in Malay Archipelago and Southern of Thailand until nowadays.

เคบาย่าชนิดต่างๆ

Baju Panjang

Baju Panjang is believed to be the first edition of kebaya in Southeast Asia. Baju means “long sleeved shirt”. Panjang means “long”. Thai calls “Kruew Yaw”. This kabaya has long hem cover both legs but open about 30 cm.at the bottom to show beautiful sarong and beadwork shoes. It was made from light weight fabric usually dress with inner white or light color shirt. The V collar show the inner shirt collar about 4-5 cm.in height. Some of this long sleeved kebaya was adored with fur ribbons at the edge. The front opening is commonly tied with pins or set of pins called “Kerongsang”. Some ladies like to wear 1-3 necklaces. Baju Panjang is popularly dressed by bride in wedding ceremony or middle age ladies with bulging tall hair dressing called “Cha Ee Boye” covered with flowers-crown or pearl-crown and adorned with earrings, rings, beaded shoes with handkerchief holding.

Some of Peranakan communities in Southwest Thailand, Nyonya or the lady adapted Baju Panjang to be shorter called “Short Baju Panjang” or “Kruey San”. Short Baju Panjang has hip-level hem, wearing with gold or silver belt and often hung a small metallic bag with the belt for luxury. Wearing short Baju Panjang could present the beauty of Batek sarong and comfortable walking. This fashion had been popular during early 19th century from the period of Phraya Ratsadanupradit the commissioner of Phuket Administrative division (Monthon), during the Reign of King Rama V to the period of King Rama VII.

The Evolution and Varieties of Malay-Kebaya

In the 16th and 17th century, the craft of lacework came to Asia, some of them were modified with kebaya to be expensive one. By the mid -19thcentury, wearing an outfit consisting of a white lace kebaya and a lavish batik sarong as a privilege of the European and Eurasian women in the Dutch East Indies. In 1872, the Dutch administration issued a rule which required every resident of the colony to wear their ethnic clothing in public areas. From 1872, kebaya had been adopted as the preferred women’s attire of the Dutch East Indies, either worn by native women, European and Eurasians. On February 10th,1910, the colonial government allowed “equalization” for Chinese Peranakan. Since then, Peranakan women began to wear white lace kebaya.

Short kebaya was evolved from long kebaya during early 20th century. Kebaya Encim (called of Peranakan Chinese women) was a thigh fitting, light and vibrant colorful with auspicious Chinese symbols began to popular in Peranakan Chinese communities in Malay Archipelago especially in Straits Settlement. With sharp hem and thin fabric, the short kebaya could be adorned with cutworks and many techniques of embroideries by creators in each community to be their traditional kebaya such as Kebaya Renda, Kebaya Biku, Kebaya Sulam , Kebaya Lahbu ,Kebaya Kerancang , Kebaya Riau Pahang ,etc.

Kebaya in Thailand

During early 20thcentury, tin and rubber trading between Phuket and Trang from Siam Kingdom to Penang which was the capital of Straits Settlement by large vessels was enhanced the relationship and cultural connection each other. Kebaya and sarong were precious merchandises from Penang. Siam women in Southwest provinces near Andaman Sea as Phuket, Phang-Nga, Trang, Krabi, Ranong, Satul adopted Nyonya Kebayas including Baju Panjang to be their traditional attires. Due to hot weather, ladies at Thai Andaman area adapted to use the inner shirt to be causal dress called “Kor Tang Kan Jeeb” because of its high collar and long slender sleeves. The connection between Siam and Penang was partially loss during WWII. After WWII, Thai government had campaign for modern dresses like European style. The brides in wedding ceremony were dressed in “Boon Beng” or evening gowns instead of Baju Panjang. When the highway from Thai Southern to Bangkok was already finished, nyonyas from Andaman area traveled to buy European laces at Sampheng market in Bangkokok. By the mid20th century, they created a new type of totally lace dress, see- through suit cover a big bra inside which had the same color called “Look Mai Tor Dok”.

The Glory and Safeguarding of ICH

Kebaya was derived from dress cultures of Europe, Muslim, java, Malay, Chinese, Peranakan and Thai more than 300 years. From 20th century, both long and short kebayas have been popularly worn by women in Southeast Asia, notably in Peranakan Chinese, Peranakan Chetty and Muslim communities. It is a fashion icon in many areas. Kebaya could be either formal or informal dress. In special occasion, the lady will adorn with beautiful attire components such as brooch, pins, belt, shoes and hair dressing. Nowadays, Kebaya is a shared intangible cultural heritage of five countries. We have to heartfeltly preserve this heritage for our young generation. Each community should protect their knowledge, specialist technique and skills, tradition and practices by their people and institutes participations and also generously exchanging and cooperation with other sister countries.

บรรณานุกรม (Reference)

• William Gwee Thian Hock. A Baba Malay Dictionary. Tuttle Publishing. The Peranakan Association. Singapore, 2006
• Datin Seri Endon Mahmood. The Nyonya Kebaya : A Century of Straits Chinese Costume. Periplus. Singapore, 2004
• ฤดี ภูมิภูถาวร.การแต่งกายผู้หญิงบาบ๋าภูเก็ต.บริษัทเอสพริ้นท์ (2004) จำกัด.สมาคมเพอรานากัน.ภูเก็ต,2547
• Lillian Tong. Straits Chinese Gold Jewellery. Pinang Peranakan Mansion Sdn Bsd. Eastern Printers Sdn Bsd. Malaysia,2014
• Randall Ea. David A. Henkel. Heidi Tan. Peranakan Museum A-Z. Asian Civilization Museum for the Peranakan Museum. KHL Printing. Singapore,2008
• Linda Chee. Being Baba. Selected Articles from the Peranakan Museum. The Peranakan Association Singapore. Craft Print Pte Ltd. Singapore,2015